Author Archives: Neil Carey

The Newer Parts are 3000 years old

We’re leaving Luxor this afternoon for Dahab. An extra-fun 14 hour bus ride. Very much looking forward to the Sinai, as we’re getting a little tired of the hassle that is everywhere in Upper Egypt.

Luxor has some amazing API Call ErrorPharonic monuments. API Call ErrorKarnak temple in particular is quite the complex. It’s actually several temples built over a period of about 2000 years, with even the newer bits being over 3000 years old (or possibly API Call Errorstill under construction). The other very famous site here, the API Call ErrorValley of the Kings wasn’t so great. The tombs, while vaguely interesting, are extremely uncomfortable to enter (too many tourists & no ventilation), and, since we can’t read ancient Egyptian, after a while all the writing & drawings are just kind of the same.

Luxor has also been the worst stop for beggars & touts. More pushy than most of Egypt, and the beggars are more insistant. Outside of Karnak, there appeared to be a whole family begging/selling useless junk, but no parents. Stewart, a guy on our tour who’s been living in Kenya and has traveled extensively in Africa, made the comment that Egypt’s not even particularly poor in the grand scheme of things, and many poorer countries still don’t have people begging the way they do here.

Aswan

It’s been a bit hectic lately. Our time in Aswan seemed to have lots of spare time built in, but it all disappeared fast. We took our first trip to a souq, and it was certainly an experience not to be forgotten. The first time out we really had no idea of prices, so ended up getting gouged. It’s hard when the prices start out as less than we’d pay for something similar at home, and then you find people afterwards who paid 1/3 of what you did for the same thing. We’re starting to get a better idea of prices now, but it’s still difficult, and tiring, to go to the market.

Our time in Aswan also included visits to API Call ErrorPhilae Temple, the API Call ErrorHigh Dam and a long drive out to visit API Call ErrorAbu Simbel.

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And into the Desert

We’ve just returned to Cairo after a three night, four day stint in API Call ErrorBahariya Oasis. The trip out to the oasis was a API Call Errorbus ride about 5 hours long. It’s only 350km, but the amount of time it took to get from downtown Cairo to the open road was extraordinarily long.

As soon as we got there, we were served a quick lunch, and then told to quickly repack our small bags, as the desert excursion we were expecting to do the next day had been moved up. There were six of us – API Call ErrorKathy and API Call Errormyself, Heather and Marcus from the UK and Georges and his daughter API Call ErrorApaulina from France – who then quickly rearranged our daypacks for a night in the desert and set out in a beaten up Toyota Landcruiser that appeared to be on its last legs. Once we were actually out in the desert, we were happy to be there, as it was API Call Errorincredibly beautiful. Unfortunately not quite as isolated as we would have liked though, as the area between Bahariya and Farafra is a really popular area for tourist excursions, so there were a number of other 4x4s around. On the way to our camp area, our driver stopped to help an older couple (possibly German) who had rented a 4×4 camper, and had gotten stuck in the sand. We all pitched in to push them free, much like pushing someone out of a snow drift, except that it’s everywhere, there’s no road, and you just have to get onto less soft sand. Still, spending the night in the white desert – a part of the western desert where there are a number of API Call Errorwhite coloured rock formations that appear to be made of chalk – was an unforgettable experience and well worth the effort.

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Sand, Sun and Pyramids

Today was certainly a packed day. We got up earlyish (okay, so around 8 am) to head out and see the pyramids. Our first stop was API Call ErrorSaqqara, where some of the earlier step pyramids are (instead of the smooth walls of the “newer” pyramids, they have several levels to them, kind of like giant steps…I guess a little closer to Mayan designs, than what most people view as Egyptian. A couple of them had not stood well to the tests of time, and from the outside look more like piles of rubble than anything else, but one, Zosa’s pyramid, is still quite intact.

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Malta

Kathy has already covered some of the annoyances of Malta (mainly the traffic), but I must admit that I rather like this country. Everything’s quite close together, the whole country being only about the size of a large city, and the buildings are just amazing. The one downside to the buildings is that almost all make use of an API Call Erroridentical colour of stone on the outside – even API Call Errorrelics from the stone age – but once you get inside them, they are something to behold.

The picture is of St. Paul’s Cathedral, which Kathy touched on. The interior is almost entirely done up in marble and very colourful paintings.

The Day of the Living Dead

Our flights to London were long and relatively uneventful. Our seats wouldn’t recline properly and we found it almost impossible to sleep on the transatlantic leg, so by the time we got to London, we were already feeling kind of tired and irritable…and that was only 11:30pm Edmonton time.

Not ones to let that stop us, we did head into the city all the same to try to see some of the sights. Wait, not quite yet. First we had the drama of storing our bags. Our onward flight to Malta left from Terminal 4 and our flight from Toronto had arrived in Terminal 3. So you’d think, no problem, we’ll just store our bags in Terminal 4 so we don’t have so much mucking about to do later in the day. Two hours later, we were on the tube to the city centre.

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Preparations Well Underway

Well, most of the preparations necessary for this trip are well underway. We’ve jumped through bureaucratic hoops and optained our Syrian visa…the only visa we can’t obtain on the road.

On other fronts, I’ve picked up some foreign cash, though my Egyptian pounds had to be ordered in, and haven’t arrived yet. And we’ve started packing up Kathy’s house. Hardly my favourite task, but one that needs to be done, and a hundred times better than painting.

And I’ve given notice at work…4 more days and I’m free and clear. It’s getting close now.

Ticketses

So we bought our first leg’s tickets yesterday. Round trip Edmonton to London. And, wow, were they ever expensive. I’m glad I budgetted more than I expected to spend for the transatlantic leg, because we almost spent it.

So we depart Tuesday, April 4 at 11:20 AM, have a quick stopover in Toronto, and then on to London, where we arrive at 6:35 AM, April 5. The return is booked for November 7, but it’s easily changeable (flat fee of $50), so we’ll see what the trip brings.

Kathy is looking over a couple of insurance options…worldnomads, or the travelcuts insurance. And then we’ll buy that. We should also arrange our flights to Cairo soon.

So much to do, so little time.

Delays

I guess this blog is looking suspiciously dead. It is not. It is simply waiting for departure. I have all my funds together, but Kathy’s plan is to sell her condo, so we have it listed, but not yet sold. As soon as we have a buyer and a possession date agreed to, we’ll buy tickets and things will kick into high gear. For now, all that can be done is wait.

The Plan

For a while, I’ve been hoping to take an adventure travelling through an interesting part of the world, and as I’ve researched various destinations, I’ve become more and more interested in the Middle East as a destination. When I left the engineering program behing in January of 2005, and got a real job, it became a realistic possibility.

So, the plan is now for me and my girlfriend, Kathy, to leave in February or March of 2006 and take 6 months to travel from Cairo, Egypt, to Budapest, Hungary. Kathy is really wanting to go back to Salzburg, Austria, one of the highlights of her only previous overseas trip, so if we’ve still got some money at that point we might continue on. In fact, if money holds out, we might even make it overland all the way back to London, but I’m not planning on it.

    So the plan is:

  • Egypt – 4 weeks
    All the basic sites – Valley of the Kings, Karnak, and the Pyramids of course, but we’ll probably also take a boat trip on the nile, head out to at least on of the western oases, and hopefully spend a day or two in Alexandria.
  • Jordan – 3 weeks
    The highlights of Jordan that I’m looking forward to are a camel trip through Wadi Rum, seeing Petra, and travelling up the King’s Highway
  • Syria – 3 weeks
    I think Syria is the country I’m most looking forward to. I don’t know too much of what to expect, though everyone who’s been reports how wonderfully friendly and hospitable everyone was. The research I’ve done on Syria just utterly fascinates me, and I don’t think there’s any one site I’m looking forward to nearly as much as just being in a place as ancient and unique.
  • Turkey – 4 weeks
    Aside from the basics of Istanbul, Cappadocia and the less visited Sanliurfa (aka Urfa), I don’t really know what else I want to see in the country, but with a month, I’m sure I’ll find lots of cool things to do. It was Turkey that originally piqued my interest in the middle east.
  • Greece – 2 weeks
    Returning to the more expensive parts of the world, we’ll be in Greece briefly, hopefully travel through to a couple of islands. There’s no particular sites that I’m looking forward to in Greece, but it should be fun.
  • Bulgaria – 3 weeks
    Prior to trip planning, I knew nothing about Bulgaria. I still feel like I don’t know a lot, but that’s kind of the point of going, isn’t it. There’s mountains and monasteries and apparently the cyrillic alphabet (used in Russian and as far away as Mongolia) originated here.
  • Romania – 3 weeks
    Romania brings up images of Dracula, of course. Another country where I don’t really know what to expect, but I’m sure it’ll be great.
  • Hungary – 2 weeks
    Finishing the official and budgetted for plan in Budapest, which is a city that everyone really raves about. Still a little unsure as to what we’ll do while we’re there, but the fun is in the finding out.

Obviously I’ve put a lot more thought into the middle eastern portion of the trip than I have the eastern european portion, but regardless, I’m committed to not sticking to a plan. For the whole distance, we’re trying to keep our options as open as possible, to stay longer if we like, or leave sooner if we get tired of a place.